Initially, we were weaving through screaming horns and exhaust. Two hours later, we were winding through narrow paths in the rainforest. I have never seen such a transformation on a bicycle ride. The process was gradual:
The chaotic roads soon became one-metre wide laneways. We stopped for scooters and dodged dogs. The rusted sharp corners of corrugated metal walls also kept us in the middle of the path.
The laneways funnelled into wide roads, but with no traffic and flanked by fields of green vegetables.
These soon shrunk again, but this time into muddy rainforest trails with the occasional concrete slab.
We stopped for ice tea at a temple and tom yom soup under a pandanus roof. Our return river crossing was via boat instead of bridge. We stumbled back into the hotel room, muddy and wonderfully exhausted.
Wat Chalor
A very old temple in someone's backyard!
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